Stay tuned! Each companion piece will take us into deeper detail on it’s system and topic. And if you have any specific questions about NV gear and the dark, let me know!

Q: I’ve read that thermals have a useful lifespan before something or other inside wears/burns out?

A: Not so! Thermal cores run forever unless you point them at the sun and leave them there. They manufacturers warranty them for a decade.

That’s image intensifier tubes you’re thinking of that have a lifespan.

Different people generally peg an I2 tubes life at 10,000 hours runtime. That means if you were using them for 5 hours a night every single night, that’s 5 and a half years life on that tube.

Q: What are your thoughts on a black and white image vs the traditional green? Some have told me that the contrast is not much different and is there a “wow” factor difference between FOM 1600-1799 vs 1800-2000? I guess what I am asking is it worth the $1500.00 difference. Thank you

A: The White Phosphor versus traditional Green Phosphor isn’t exceptionally meaningful. It’s just an alternate tone, not a distinct advantage. Anyone telling you that WP tubes have better contrast or are better in sync with your eye’s evolution have bought into the marketing.

There’s nothing wrong with WP. I’ve got one and I like it. But there’s no serious advantage either.

I’d say the higher figure of merits are noticeable only if you’ve looked through a lot of NVGs and spent more than 5 minutes continually looking through one. But they are noticeable. Personally I think $1500 is a lot of money for a little upgrade, but if you’re gunning for the best why not get the best?

Q: I am finally in a spot to get myself a nice expensive weapon sight that can allow me to see in the dark. I know that I will be spending 5 -10 grand. I have done some research on night vision products. I know little about thermal imaging however. What’s the best bang for your buck? What’s a more useful tool or is it situation based? I like the fact that thermal can see through fog.

Also do you recommend a weapon, hand or head mounted unit?
-Nate

A: I wrote parts of this article when I worked at Scout Basecamp, a company which sold night vision and thermal. I don’t work there any more and from what I understand their night vision offerings are no long so robust, but they are a major place to get thermal. If you’re looking for NV in Canada there are a few Canadian companies who retail stuff and one major mil-spec manufacturer: GSCI.

From a technological standpoint there are very different things happening when you use thermals compared to running an NVD. But there’s also some decisions to be made about what might work best for you, depending on what you are asking your equipment to do.

Night vision intensifiers are amplifying the existing light. This means that the tube inside of them is enhancing light that is barely there and filtering it through a series of photon replicating micro channel plates to your eye. There’s a lot more going on in there, but the key idea is that an NVD takes the light already present and makes more of it.

Thermal imagers on the other hand use a microbolometer to detect the infrared radiation emitted by objects around you. When infrared radiation is focused onto the uncooled detector, the heat absorbed causes changes to the electrical properties of the detector material. These changes can be compared to a base value and used to create a thermal image. The key advantage here is that thermals will highlight and differentiate the environment regardless of light. Rather than brightening the image, they are reading the radiation which produces a spectrum of different heat levels.

Most western militaries issue their soldiers with NVGs of some kind, as the ability to conduct operations at night has proven a major advantage in all recent conflicts. Thermal units have come down dramatically in price, more than 50% in the past ten years to the point that they are similarily priced to night vision units.

Those expensive long distance thermal units do have the benefit of reaching further than any hand held night vision device. A decent FLIR unit can effectively detect a man sized signature well past 500 meters, while most night vision scopes are only 3X or 5X magnification. There’s nothing in the lineup of traditional nightvision devices that will do long range like the BTS units with their telephoto lenses.

*This is the important part* Night vision devices are better for close range awareness and navigation though. Because all these units are sensitive to IR light you can use a variety of tools like beacons, strobes, friendly indicators, and IR lasers that are only visible to people wearing nightvision. Thermal units only identify heat, so they don’t care which uniform your wearing, but they can pick out a camouflaged person from their surrounding instantly. They are ideal for detection, but limited when it comes to identification.

FLIR units are also easier to pickup and use. Make sure they’re charged, and that’s pretty much all the maintenance they need. There’s no finicky focusing like the first two generations of NVDs, and no light restrictions at all. This means they also aren’t constrained to night-time activities. As an outdoorsman, FLIR can have multiple roles in your pack: As a scanning tool, as a confirmation tool, and as a night navigation unit.

Some thoughts: No matter what you pick, the biggest limitation will be your nationality, not your wallet. If we were in Texas I’d encourage you to spend $8,000 and get yourself a decent PVS-14 and a Thermosight RS. That would give you everything you’d want all at once. But we’re in Canada, so you’re going to have to make do with what you can find available here.

Some key questions you have to answer for yourself are:
Do I want to move under NVGs, or observe a scene from a static position?
Do I need my low-light solution to be integrated with a firearm?
What will my primary use for this device be? What auxiliary uses might it have?

Q: First thanks for the great response, I can tell you I will be picking your brain for a while. In a nutshell I answered your questions above. Any chance you could recommend a few rigs from the high high end of equipment to what will get you by?

Do I want to move under NVGs, or observe a scene from a static position?

-Most like from a static position. I see a equal value tho in moving, so both!

Do I need my low-light solution to be integrated with a firearm?

-Yes

What will my primary use for this device be? What auxiliary uses might it have?

-Navigation
-Target Identification
-Destroying Threats

Regards,

Nate

A: Nate, the next question for you is: What kind of range do you need to shoot at?

If you’re under 100 yards, I’d suggest a helmet mounted monocular and an IR laser. If you’re over a hundred yards, I’d recommend a helmet mounted monocular and a semi-permanent night optic on your rifle. Something like a fixed 4x or 5x, or a clip on system if you’ve got the rail space. Clip ons require more real estate and are heavier, but also have the big advantage of not interfering with your zero, cheek weld, eye relief, etc.

For the navigation side of things a helmet mounted monocular really is the best solution. But remember that phrase has two other words in front of monocular! You’ll need to find a helmet and a mount.

So lets build an affordable kit:

Protec Bravo Helmet: $89
GSCI GS-14 Gen 2 dovetail mount: $2699
Armasight 4x Orion with IR Illuminator: $649
Dovetail Arm: $70
Helmet shroud and Flip Up Mount: $200 new, but you can find them at lots of military surplus stores for less. Best deal I ever got on one was $15

So that’s put you at just over $3700 with two fully functioning devices if I’ve done my math right. However you might find that dovetails not as stable as you’d like, and that the Orion really need regular assistance from that IR illuminator to be worth anything. And maybe the GS-14 isn’t a true 40 degree field of view, which can make life just a little bit harder when you’re moving around.

Protip: when night vision is working well, really well, then it feels like a spotlight only you can see. The rest of the world is still there, but you move this “illuminated point” over it by moving your head around. That’s what integration is supposed to feel like.

Now lets build an expensive (but not gucci) kit:

Ops-Core Bump Helmet: $300
A pair of PVS-14 Monoculars: $7000
Dual Bridge Mount: $600
Wilcox Flip Up Mount: $400
DBAL with IR: $1500
CO-MR Clip On: $2195

So there you’re right at $12K, and you’ve got 3 top notch night vision devices in a very solid setup.

Beyond that, you get into Horta territory where you’re building fusion devices and spending astronomical sums of money. He’s a crazy guy.

If you haven’t, you should spend an hour or two looking around TNVC’s web store just to get an idea of how much good stuff is out there. But do so with the understanding that they will never, ever ship to you. They take ITAR very seriously.

That’s it for now! If you have any questions yourself don’t hesistate to get in touch with me.

Essentially, I’m looking to clarify NVGs and compare what you get for your money with different technologies. So I will be examining both image intensified and thermal night vision units, looking at a budget and mil-spec example of each. Expect lots of photos, videos, and a few words from me.

I’ll also talk about some beginner mistakes made with different forms of night vision, and examine scenario specific equipment. Getting the right gear for working in the dark is all about the kind of work you’re doing.

I’ve seen a few low light courses and instructors run very successful programs, but completely ignore the opti-electronic devices that are increasingly available. There’s nothing wrong with white light, but there’s a whole other world happening once you enter the IR spectrum. Stay tuned…

The Pistol:

The Shotgun:

Confession time. I’ve never cleaned my Akdal Mka 1919. I put it through the break in, tinkered with the mags to make them run reliably, and sprayed lube inside the beast. That’s it. This gun runs so well I am loathe to change anything. I shudder just at the thought of popping the Razor red dot off and losing my slug-zero. My initial instinct when I was thinking about the Crimson Trace match was “lasers on everything.” But as I look at the stages, and think about trying to put a laser on a clay target, I feel a light and a red dot is a better option for the “close-enough” shotgun.

I’ve busted out a piece of equipment from my very first gun: the barrel clamp light mount. It’s not pretty, but it lets me put a light on the end of the 1919 without needing any picatinny (which would require a firebird precision replacement fore-end) For lights I’m using a Klarus MODEL that I won off the Gun Owners of Canada Forum back in April.

The Rifle:

Being my perpetual favourite, I opted to bring the Tavor with me rather than borrow a stage gun. I’ve done some big changes here to make it “more 3-Gun” and less combat rifle. I noticed everyone in my squad at the MGM Ironman used Seekins Precision rails on their AR-15s. The wide flat-bottom hand guards locked in tight when it came to stabilizing against barriers. There were definitely 9-hole walls where I was resting the barrel of the Tavor on the obstacle. Not ideal. So I dropped cash on a Midwest Industries XL hand guard, and added a single section of key mod rail to put a light on the fore-end.

The same debate as the pistol: I’m unsure whether to leave the Ares Armor compensator, or put a fancy Surefire 215 Flash Hider on there to keep the fire-balls down. Side by side comparisons of the two reveal a pretty substantial difference in flash, but I’m not certain how much it matters here. For a light on the Tavor I’m using an offset mount as close to the barrel as I can get, with a surefire defender in there to illuminate down-range.

This all sounds good, but of course there’s one major curve ball with the Midnight 3 Gun: Lots of stage guns.

I know I’ll be shooting an FN AR-15 with a thermal sight on top, a suppressed glock, and a PWS piston-gun with a suppressor as well. There’ll be a mossberg 500 and a few other surprises waiting. These aren’t hard guns to shoot, but they’re not my guns, and that’s one more unknown factor. Plus you know . . . the grenade launcher and the select-fire systems. That’s just part of the fun! To steal and turn a phrase: “F**k it. We’ll do it live. And in the dark!“

I start shooting Wednesday the 13th, and I’ll be writing about it here and on The Firearm Blog.

]]> http://tv-presspass.com/gear-for-the-midnight-3-gun-invitational/feed/ 0 http://tv-presspass.com/crimson-trace-midnight-invitational-3-gun-i-will-be-there/ http://tv-presspass.com/crimson-trace-midnight-invitational-3-gun-i-will-be-there/#respond Thu, 31 Jul 2014 22:19:57 +0000 http://tv-presspass.com/?p=913 Continue reading Crimson Trace Midnight 3 Gun: I Will Be There →]]> There are only so many blog posts that can be written about the Crimson Trace Midnight match without using “shot in the dark” or “lights out” or similar “moons out goons out” phrases.

But the heart of it is: this looks like a really cool shoot, and I’m really excited to be participating.

Starting in 2012, the light & laser masters at Crimson Trace have hosted a 3 Gun match in Bend, Oregon. The entire event runs from sun-set to 3 am, which certainly ups the challenge.

I’m really excited for this because it will be my first time shooting alongside world champions. Jerry Miculek, Chris Cheng, Caleb Giddings, and Mike Hughes will all be there, along with a whole host of very skilled guys.

One of the best things about the Crimson Trade Midnight 3-Gun is that it involves a lot of stage guns. Fabrique National makes sure that there are some wild cards there most guys don’t have hands on time with.

I’m talking about the full-auto, belt-fed, machinegun:

I’m talking about the 40mm Grenade Launcher. (skip to the 1:00 mark)

Plus fun things you don’t normally see in Canada like suppressed pistols, thermal night vision, etc.

After the media match wraps up early in the week, I’ll be covering some of those talented shooters as they compete in the main match. You can follow those posts as they happen on The Firearm Blog.

I’ll also be taking a lovely photographer along this trip! If I’ve grown tired of first person shaky cams, I’m sure you have too.

If you’re familiar with my regular 3 Gun Gear, I’ve done some minor upgrades to make illumination and aiming easier, which I’ll detail in a future blog post.

I’m personally debating whether I want to try to run the event using night vision and IR lasers, or just do things the conventional way with a white light, red-lasers & red dots.

The night vision direction is certainly a handi-cap. But really: I’m unlikely to win anyway, and when am I going to get the chance to shoot like this again? The only thing preventing me from going “full dark” is the lack of IR aiming devices. I currently have one, (Chinese made) which doesn’t share particularly well between three guns. However, I have lots of lights, lasers & red dots, from reputable brands.

The decision needs to be made soon! What do you think?

 

]]> http://tv-presspass.com/crimson-trace-midnight-invitational-3-gun-i-will-be-there/feed/ 0 http://tv-presspass.com/night-vision-on-the-tar-21/ http://tv-presspass.com/night-vision-on-the-tar-21/#respond Sun, 04 Nov 2012 03:16:38 +0000 http://tv-presspass.com/?p=181 Continue reading Night Vision on the TAR-21 →]]>

 

This combination took me a while to set up. Installing the full length top rail was a huge pain in the ass but it allowed me to mount a 512 eo-tech and riser in front of my ATN Spirit. With a Gen 2+ tube its not the best NVD available, but its certainly a cut above entry level units. Using a 1x lens and picatinny mount in conjunction with the IR output of the Inforce WML means I can confidently engage targets within 100 yards.

While current generation Tavors come with a full length rail, I had to buy mine from Canada Ammo. Made by Ranch Tactical, this rail is certainly a cut above the NEA equivalent, but it does have some fitting issues still. The rail fits over the lower profile gas block, effectively removing the rear flip up sight and covering the IWI proprietary NVD or magnifier mount.

The night vision I’m using now came from this site here:

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